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In today’s Rioja the majority of entry-level wines are based on Tempranillo, a variety both easier and more profitable to grow. Not so here, where Garnacha—which once represented 50% of the plantings in Rioja (today that figure is closer to 12%)—represents 60% of the blend. This then is an ode to the history of Garnacha in Rioja. The lion’s share of the Garnacha portion (60%) hails from the sandy, river stone terroir of El Agudo, a 60-year-old plot at Alfaro on the Monte Yerga (Rioja Baja). The Tempranillo is drawn from a selection of mature vines in Ábalos (Rioja Alta), and there is also some Ábalos Graciano, adding depth and freshness—Bozeto is a blend of south and north.

Tom Puyaubert ferments his Garnacha in Nomblot concrete tanks, while the Tempranillo is naturally fermented in tank and then aged for six months in concrete and 5,000-litre oak vats. From a late, Atlantic-styled (read: cooler and fresher) vintage—the Garnacha was picked one month later than is typical.