Domaine Henri Delagrange et Fils Hautes Cotes de Beaune Pinot Noir 2019


I drank this wine over 2 nights and loved the nuanced differences it showed on each night. Night one – it was so bright and lush. Loads of red fruits, blueberry, cherries, florally so expressive and polished; I loved it. Night 2 – once the fruit had dropped away a touch, it showed more structure but the fruit was still beaming through. It lost nothing…it showed spice, savory, sappy tannins…it’s a cracking entry level Bourgogne Rouge.

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With age comes experience and the extremely affable Didier, son of Henri, understands his region right down to the individual vine. He is a calm, happy man, who enjoys the position time has given him. The border between the villages of Volnay and Pommard, where a good part of the Domaine’s vines are situated, is perhaps one of the most interesting geological contrasts in all of Burgundy. Here, the slopes of Volnay produce Pinot Noir that is lacy, delicate and fragrant. A few hundred feet away, where the slopes flatten out, the soil of Pommard gives the same grape variety muscle and concentration. Didier owns 14 hectares of vines in the communes of Volnay, Pommard, Aloxe- Corton, Meursault and Haute-Côtes de Beaune. Didier can boast some of the best plots located right in the centre of Volnay. The philosophy he has embraced is simple: hard work by hand in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar. He ploughs rather than sprays and uses only organic vine and soil treatments, de-buds to limit yields, defoliates by hand to prevent rot and harvests manually. In the cellar he uses new oak only sparingly, with 30% whole-bunch ferments in the reds. Didier’s main focus is to make wines that have precise aromatics followed by a pure core of classic Burgundian fruit.

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