Schwarz Wine Co Meta Mataro 2017 (95JH)


93 Points, Campbell Mattinson, Wine Front, “Hand picked, wild yeast, 20% whole bunches, unfined, unfiltered. 2130 bottles made. Wine worth crowing about. Mountain herbs, graphite, peppercorn and spice notes come at least in lock-step, if not ahead of, blackberry and plum, leather and earth flavours. It’s different, in a good way. It’s fresh and complex, more-ish and highly engaging. Weight doesn’t really come into it but there’s more than enough here. Refreshing feel to it just puts another tick on the positive side of the ledger.”

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James Halliday’s Review: The economical name is appropriate for a business that started with 1 tonne of grapes making two hogsheads of wine in 2001. Shiraz was purchased from Jason Schwarz’s parents’ vineyard in Bethany, the vines planted in 1968; the following year half a tonne of grenache was added, once again purchased from the parents. In ’05, grape sale agreements with another (larger) winery were terminated, freeing up 1.8ha of shiraz and 0.8ha of grenache. From this point on things moved more quickly: in ’06 Jason formed a partnership (Biscay Road Vintners) with Peter Schell of Spinifex, giving them total control over production. Jason Schwarz’s wines taste of the vineyards where the grapes are grown. And he’s got a good eye for finding great vineyards… both Jason’s father and his grandfather were state pruning champions, he grew up among the vines on the family property at Bethany and he’s worked alongside some of the Barossa’s best-known grape growers and winemakers. A shed-load of experience has taught him that once you find great fruit you look after it with a light touch. “I like the fruit to speak for itself,” Jason says.

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