Ovum Pinot Gris 2020
We went into this low-yielding, low-rainfall vintage anticipating intense concentration and fruit weight, but – true to 2020 form – were thrown curves in the winery. We’re used to Ovum Pinot Gris being fine-boned, but this vintage has an uncommon structure and weight to it such that you might miss the delicate prettiness in the top notes. Sit with the glass and you’ll see it soon enough – a wine that reminds you to pause and breathe while you’re smelling the roses. In the egg-shaped cement fermenter that gives Ovum its name, grape solids lend phenolic weight to the wine, evolving an otherwise brisk, tightly wound grigio into a floral, blossomy gris. Take your time with this one. 100% Carey Gully Pinot Gris planted in 1997, pressed direct to tank, full solids, 100% fermentation in concrete ‘egg’ for nine months. – BK