Domaine de la Merize Moulin a Vent 2020


100% Old Vine Gamay. Patrick makes sensational old school Cru Beaujolais. Its what he does. He has plots around the village & produces wine of extraordinary longevity. The nose begins discreetly but then begins to expand wonderfully, a lovely smooth rich fruit throughout, total harmony, very lovely long and fine. The fruit sets on the palate like jugs of dark purple mulberry fruit combined with touches of liquorice then a fine tannin grip that comes from the skin settling post ferment in the classic old cement tanks. Its a morning noon & night wine that perhaps we can just about restrict ourselves to noon & night.

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Moulin-à-Vent is the most structured and age worthy of the elite ten Cru’s of Beaujolais. I was told that Patrick Bertrand, the owner of Domaine de la Merize, has proudly been to Paris – once. A quietly spoken mischievous man with arms like Popeye, I know that he is immensely proud of his wines and his region, but would certainly never say so. He tells me he is not from Beaujolais, like his father and grandfather, he is from Moulin-à-Vent.

The reasons why his wines are so good is simple: firstly – the vine age (on average sixty years old), secondly – vineyard location. The vines are situated on various aspects, which provide him with fruit with different flavours and structures.

Unsurprisingly, Patrick does not use any oak nor, for that matter, any new fangled vinification methods; these are true, honest and traditional wines.

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